Installing Decals, Flat out – How to Apply Decals Without Trapping Dirt and Air Bubbles

It’s not clear to me whether this how-to story will be met with ridicule, or with nods of approval, largely because I have no clue how many people know how to install decals correctly. However, I do see a lot of bubbled stickers when I go to the track, and it sure took me nigh on forever to get a handle on installing decals, so here goes nothing.

If you try to install decals without something to lubricate the adhesive side, you will get air bubbles underneath them. When I try to cheat because I’m in too big a hurry, I always get air bubbles.

I have been using Windex to lubricate the decals, but some say soap and water works, too. The only reason for wetting the decals is so you can adjust the position of the decal quickly and easily and so you can squeegee out all the air bubbles once you get them where you want them.

Materials and tools for the job are minimal. You’ll need some Windex, some painter’s tape to align the decals so you know they’re straight, some paper towels and a plastic squeegee. A rubber squeegee works, but not as well because it’s more apt to cling to the transfer. A credit card works in a pinch, too. However, probably the most important detail for installing decals correctly is patience and self control.

See, when the decals are in place and squeegeed to your satisfaction, the penultimate step is to walk away from the car and stay away until the decals are dry. If you don’t walk away, you’re going to want to peel off the transfer before the Windex has dried and you’re just going to peel off the whole thing. It’ll be a fight if the decals are wet, and like nearly any fight, it’s best to just walk away. Come back later, peel the transfer film away slowly and you’ll achieve better results.

What you need

  • Windex
  • Painter’s tape
  • Paper towels
  • Plastic squeegee
  • Credit card
It doesn’t take much to achieve excellent results. Use painter’s tape to hold the decal transfer in place once you get it level. The Windex is for lubing the adhesive side and the squeegee is for, well, squeegeeing the Windex and air bubbles out from under the decal. You’ll also want paper towels to dry off the drips and maybe a razor blade separate the transfer paper.
It doesn’t take much to achieve excellent results. Use painter’s tape to hold the decal transfer in place once you get it level. The Windex is for lubing the adhesive side and the squeegee is for, well, squeegeeing the Windex and air bubbles out from under the decal. You’ll also want paper towels to dry off the drips and maybe a razor blade separate the transfer paper.
Using painter’s tape allows you to stand back and be sure the decals are where you want them. Clean the surface before starting.
Peel the backing away from the transfer film to expose the adhesive surface.
Spray the adhesive side of the decal with Windex after or as you peel away the backing paper.
Use the squeegee to squeeze out all the Windex and air bubbles from underneath the decal.
Wipe away the excess Windex and let the decals take a set. This is key, and it’s a good time to walk away from the car. If your car is in the shade, it’s good to wait at least a couple of hours. If it’s in the sun, it takes less time, but do yourself a favor and walk away. The temptation to peel them off before they’re ready will be too great, and you’ll just muck it up and have to start over.
Yes, the rear bumper magically transformed into a fender. Due to some technical error with the camera, I had to shoot another location. Slowly peel away the transfer as parallel to the surface as possible to reduce the risk of lifting the decal.

Here’s a quick video, with a lovely acoustic guitar track, from the NASA Pro Racing TV channel on YouTube that walks you through the process.

Image courtesy of Brett Becker

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